When in Dutch Harbor- Tour Crab Boats & Eat Crab!

Last night's Deadliest Catch episode inspired me to share with you a special tour I got while I was in Unalaska for the Commemoration of the 75th Anniversary of the Bombing of Dutch Harbor and Aleut Evacuation- a crab boat tour!  My friend and Unalaska resident, Lydia, surprised me with arranging a tour of her friends fishing vessel- F/V Baranof, on a rainy Saturday when all the warbird flights were grounded due to the lousy weather.  I was stoked!  I have been watching the Discovery Channel's, Dutch Harbor based crab fishing show for the last nine years, not in an effort to learn more about crustaceans but in a effort to learn more about the Aleutians itself and the type of environment that my grandfather would have encountered while flying P-40's there. It somehow connected me to his experience.   As a positive result,  I now have a new found appreciation for the fishing industry. 

Deck of the 180ft F/V Baranof

Anatomy of a crab boat: the launcher, the block, coiler and the crane (left).

F/V Baranof Captain Patrick Sjodin. Good sport.  Thanks for your time. 

I took quite a bit of teasing for my viewership of the show and especially for the LFS Bering Sea 2017 sweatshirt I donned while at sea during the WWll history tour that took us out along the chain to Attu and back.  Now understand, some people from those parts, have a beef with the show;  how is has become dramatic, fake, exaggerated, over glamorized (is that even possible of a fishing show?) and in a sense, invaded their community.  All sentiments I agree with especially in the latter years of the show but it is television and most TV shows are like that.  Real with a hint of exaggeration or outlandishness.  They almost have to be in order for the show come across the tube as compelling enough to watch.  It is the nature of television. It is 'entertainment' after all.  How entertaining would it be if the people on the show were as boring as dirt?  Exactly.

My buddy and retired Bering Sea crab fisherman, Travis Lofland. 
BIG props to you Travy and friends.  I don't know how you did it...

Aside from the stretch in reality that it may be at times, a positive aspect of the show is that it brings light to one of the many overlooked industries that we so easily enjoy the fruits of.. or in this case, the meat of.  These guys work in some horrendously treacherous conditions just so we can eat crab and other sea foods!  And after watching an episode a few weeks back where they fished through 30 foot seas and 50mph winds,   I have even more appreciation for those who catch the crab I eat.  I mean, I know what 10 foot seas feel like (see my short, measly in comparison, video below) and that was plenty enough.  And I was just sitting in the wheelhouse never mind running around on a pitching and rolling deck with freezing spray.  Seriously- that is some unbelievable shit they go through.  Almost unimaginable.  So why not recognize them- we (and I don't mean me.. just to be clear) celebrate the Kardashian's and Honey Boo Boo for goodness sakes and they provide us with nothing! I 'd say we owe these crab guys a great big freaking thank you!!!

Oh dear... and I digress, the crab boat tour...right.   Lydia, sweet soul Lydia, being the good sport and human that she is, indulged my inner guilty pleasure and set up a tour.  Alex, one of the CAF warbird pilots, came along and boy was he glad he did.  He and the engineer had a blast talking mechanics.  I thought they were never going to emerge from the three floor engine room.  The F/V Baranof is not your standard crab fishing boat, it also serves as it's own processor.  It processes and boxes all it's own catch right there on board to ensure the highest standard of quality and freshness.  The frozen and boxed product is then shipped and sold mostly to Asia.  Why? Simple. Supply and demand.  They are huge seafood consumers, much more than the U.S. and they buy the stuff up.   Luckily for us, not all of it went west that day, we were sure to leave with two boxes of freshly caught crab to be enjoyed on our last day of the commemoration.   And it was scrumptious!

Lydia and I on deck of the F/V Baranof

Alex, one of the CAF pilots with our dinner! 2- 11lb boxes of crab.

Scarlet King Crab (front) vs. Tanner or Snow crab (back).  Scarlet all the way.

Alex & Cricket enjoying a well deserved crab feast after a weekend full of flying.

So, I'll continue to withstand the friendly jabs at my show preferences because in the end, I actually feel grateful because it inspired me to learn more about the Aleutian Islands and what my grandfather persevered in the 1940's. It peaked my interest, and it helped motivate me to travel there. And look what has come of this so far?   No complaints here... nothing but smiles.  Fish on.

The Work Is Worth It

Written 6/20/2017
 
Exhausted is how I left Florida in May.  Exhausted describes how I have been this entire year really.  Excited, yet exhausted   There is an expression that my daughters team uses repeatedly when they are in the thick of practicing for a competition- the work is worth it.   And it is. When you are working towards something you care deeply about, every ounce of work is worth it.  But as I laid my weary, tired achy body to bed one night aboard the rolling Puk Uk, our marine chariot for the 2017 WWll Aleutian Island history tour, I was questioning my desires.  

My home for three weeks, the 70ft M/V Puk Uk.  It is one of the only vessels that travels all the way to Attu. 

Normally, I feel strongly guided to move in a certain direction lead by some kind of extraordinary circumstance that directs me to move one way or another.  With all the busyness of this year coupled with several misleading heart flutters, I have been missing or perhaps numb to the strong pull of my guide wires, the ones that make it clear what my next step is.   Don’t get me wrong, there are some incredible things on the horizon for 2018, and in actuality next summer is already full with exciting events!  But something, at least as of that night, was missing.

I suspect this contemplation stems from the utter feeling of devitalization from the last 300 some odd days of planning this summer’s events.  I’d say,  if there is one place for me to get replenished, it would be here in the middle of the Bering Sea.  I mean, we are totally disconnected, surrounded by the breathtaking marvel of the sea, the mountains and marine life. The history alone should be enough to clear all ones uncertainties away.  The most challenging part of the year is over.  Our trip is half way through, we have our sea legs, the long days of hiking are behind us, and I am fully caught up on sleep. It is now time to exhale, slow down and open up to the experience of what may be next.

Barren Islands, Alaska

And as for the long awaited events that brought on such contemplations?  Phenomenal. All of them.  For now, here is quick slide show that highlights some of the festivities and people involved with the 75th Anniversary weekend. 

Welcome to Unalaska!

   

Mission of Honor

I started writing this blog a few years ago with the grand vision and hope of going to the Aleutian Islands one day to pay a tribute to my grandfather for his service during the second world war.  And on this Memorial week, as we remember and honor those who sacrificed themselves for our who freedom,  I could not think of any better time to share with you the most wonderful of blessings I have just received.  In less than three weeks I will embark on a trip of a life time; a mission of honor,  to the Aleutian Islands, Alaska.  

I will join nine other brave souls on a challenging expedition of WW2 historical sites throughout the Aleutian Islands.  The tour is organized by Valor Tours, Ltd who specializes in WW2 historical tours worldwide.   The tour begins in Anchorage on June 15th, where we catch a flight west to our first stop along the aleutian chain- Adak.  This was the launching point of military operations for much of the Aleutian campaign.  And it is from where my grandfather flew his combat missions.   After a full day of exploring Adak, we board the 72ft M/V Puk-Uk and keep west to Kiska.  In June of 1942, Kiska, a U.S. territory, became occupied by the Japanese Imperial Army. American and Allied forces spent much of their time trying to drive the enemy out of the island via persistent air attacks.   We will spend two full days there exploring, on foot, the old Japanese war base.

From there, continuing on to the most westward point in the United States- Attu.   This remote island was the location of the second deadliest battle in the Pacific Theater, just behind Iwo Jima.  It is now a designated National Historic Landmark.  We spend 3 or 4 days exploring the island before we head back East to our final destination- Dutch Harbor, where the war in Alaska all began.  On  June 3rd and 4th, 1942, the Japanese attacked Dutch Harbor by way of air destroying much of the town and its base.  It is in this small fishing town that is home to the Museum of the Aleutians, where I want to donate my grandfathers things.  The perfect ending to what will be an incredible tour.  The next day, June 30th, we will conclude our trip with a flight back to Anchorage.

Our floating Aleutian escort.  www.pukuk.com

As if that wasn't enough,  I am also looking into making a separate trip over to Kodiak Island. It has been one of my goals to visit as many of the bases my grandfather was stationed at as possible.  The Naval Air Station in Kodiak is where he was for many months. From there he taught other pilots how to fly in the dangerous Aleutian conditions. Actually, the Naval Air Station no longer exists.  It is now home to the Kodiak Coast Guard but many of the same WW2 buildings are still in use today.  

For me, this trip is a pilgrimage of sorts.  A pilgrimage to pay my utmost in respects, not just to my grandfather, but close in my heart will be, all the men and women who endured the fiercest and loneliness of conditions so that we can live free today.  To bring recognition and respect,  to those that were forgotten about while fighting for our continent.   What an absolute honor it will be.  I am incredibly thankful. 

Funny, I went to Disney a few months back and found myself thinking that I must be boring because I am not a fan roller coasters.   But looking at this trip, I realize, I am not boring at all. I may not like roller coasters but I sure do like an adventure and this is going to be one heck of a ride.  

Planes, Boats & Automobiles

Many would say that I have been around, meaning, lived a lot of different places.  I guess it depends what your definition of 'a lot' is.

I was born in Winnipeg, Manitoba, a city of 600,000 in the center of Canada (above North Dakota and yes, it is C-O-L-D in the winter).  In my late 20's I moved to the warmer and bigger city of Vancouver, B.C. (above Seattle, WA).  Still in search of a hotter climate, after three years,  I was on the move again, this time to the Caribbean island of Puerto Rico... now we're talking heat.  Five years, one child and a new language later, I decided to return to the continent, to the suburbs of Tampa, Florida, only to find myself craving the ocean.  I moved again to another tropical paradise, Anna Maria Island, 20 miles North of Sarasota, Florida and a 2 minute walk to the beach.

So yea, I guess you could say that I have zig zagged the continent, experienced some things and have had to adapt, and adapt again to my surroundings.  No fear, no regret, I enjoy learning the different ways in which places function.

Even with all my experience I was still caught off guard when I started to plan our trip to Alaska.  I naively thought we would go to Alaska and take ferries or cars to all the different places where my Papa was stationed in WW2: Umnak, Adak, Anchorage, Kodiak, Dutch. That is until I spoke with a local Alaskan, Joan, who let me know that just one of the routes I wanted to take via the Alaskan Marine Highway would take three and a half days!!   She advised me to take a plane, which I hesitantly concurred.  Although Joan does not know it, that was the moment that clicked within me, when I realized that I knew virtually nothing about how to get around in Alaska and it may be interesting to start blogging about this journey.  From traveling there to the war history, there is so much to be discovered.  What made our conversation even more noteworthy was that she also had a relative who fought as an Alaskan Ranger in the Aleutian Island campaign!

A ferry traveling the Alaskan Marine Highway
 www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs

Admittedly, I was not happy to hear about having to fly, you see, I have a slight fear of flying on those little planes.  And to be honest, at this point in my planning,  I am not even sure how 'little' the planes are on that route.  My only point of reference is the Discovery Channel's- Flying Wild Alaska, and they use some small planes. Six seaters... yikes!  And yes, I know that my fear is unjust, planes are safer than cars, which is what I had to keep telling myself this year as we flew right through the middle of Tropical Storm Debby into Tampa.  Truth be told, that watching Flying Wild Alaska has actually helped boost my confidence level in regards to those small planes.  It seems that those pilots, and I am now assuming all pilots,  handle turbulent weather well without fear and with confidence.  Almost like us non-pilots driving our cars.   If they trust themselves and the planes they fly then I can survive on a little ol' plane too.  That is my new mantra, repeat, repeat, repeat. Ok, first adaptation made.

Pen Air- The Spirit of Alaska, one of the few airlines servicing Alaskan communities.
www.penair.com

The next reality check happened when I looked up the prices of the flights from Anchorage to Unalaska and to Adak.  They were both around a thousand dollars each ticket, each destination.  I guess I have to remember that the Aleutian Islands are so spread out, and it would be like flying from Tampa to New York City.  Another interesting discovery is that flights to Adak only depart twice per week, 3 days apart. And although I have not written about Adak yet, know that the population is only about 326 people.   So next adaptation needed: an increase in my initial budgeting forecast by... a lot and to plan for a fishing trip or two in Adak.

So it's on, so much to learn, so much to explore, so much research to be done.  Can you put a price on a mission of honor?  Not in my books.  Time to make my Papa proud, just like he made us when he defended our continent.

Geography 101- The Aleutian Islands

I just had to start with this post because after speaking about this to several people recently I realized that most people do not even know where the Aleutian Islands are.  The most common response I have gotten is- 'somewhere south, somewhere tropical'.  Umm yea, not so much, let's try the complete opposite direction.  Look up, way up North, to Alaska.

The Aleutian Islands are a string of 14 volcanic islands (yes with a few that are currently active) plus many more smaller ones, that extend about 1,200 miles southwest off the Alaska Peninsula.  They are surrounded, to the south, by the Pacific Ocean and, to the north, by the Bering Sea.  They make up the most westward part of the United States.  The Islands are very mountainous as they are a continuation of the Aleutian Range on the mainland, with peaks reaching 6,200 feet, some of which come up straight up from the sea creating a dramatic and beautiful rocky coastline.

Islands of Four Mountains, Alaska

The Islands are almost free from trees and are covered with a dense growth of shrub like plants with costal areas covered in peat bog, wet spongy layers of decomposing vegetation. The islands are said to be one of the rainiest places in the United States with an average of 250 rainy days a year, which is more precipitation than rainy Seattle or Vancouver.  They are under an almost constant fog with seasonal temperatures ranging from 30-52 degrees Fahrenheit. (Yikes, that is a little chilly for this former Canadian who now has some thin Florida blood.)  The Aleutians are known as the birthplace of the winds; the cradle of the storms.  The climate in the chain can change in an instant with Williwaws, sudden gusts of strong winds descending from the cold snowy mountains to the sea,  developing seemingly out of no where. 

The Islands are sparsely populated with only an estimated population of 8,100 people, half of which live in Unalaska (Dutch Harbor), AK, one of the largest Islands located on the eastern side of the chain.

Unalaska (aka Dutch Harbor), Alaska

In World War 2, the beautiful and mysterious Aleutian Islands were invaded by the Japanese. The first invasion took place in June 3rd, 1942 on Dutch Harbor and days later the Japanese went on to claim the two most westerly Islands of Kiska and Attu.  My Grandfather was a fighter pilot and served in the Aleutian Campaign to rid the Islands of its forgein invaders and keep North America safe.  

This is how I came to know of the Aleutian Islands, Alaska,  and I am now on a mission to know more, a lot more about this barren but magnificant part of North America!